Origins and Evolution of the Hawaiian Shirt: A Journey Through History. Wear it confidently, and it fits right into your wardrobe

The Hawaiian shirt, also known as the aloha shirt, is a standout piece in menswear, known for its bright colors, loose fit, and bold patterns. It challenges traditional sophisticated dressing, yet Tori Richard, Hawaii’s most esteemed shirtmaker, has found immense success with it. One of their designs, featuring a wave pattern inspired by Japanese woodcut prints, has sold over 500,000 units and even appeared on credit cards for a Hawaiian bank. The aloha shirt is perfect for humid climates and carries cultural significance, worn as a regional identifier or a bold fashion statement. It has been popularized by celebrities like George Clooney, Tom Selleck, and Elvis Presley, representing positivity and open spirit. Conversely, in other contexts, it has been used to convey a darker, rebellious attitude, as seen with Robert de Niro in “Cape Fear” and Al Pacino in “Scarface.”

The persistence of the Hawaiian shirt into the 21st century is indeed noteworthy. As Feldman notes, similar to the increasing prominence of local accents despite globalization, traditional clothing items are also experiencing a resurgence. For example, the wearing of lederhosen in Germany has seen a revival. The international popularity of the aloha shirt fluctuates with the cyclical trends in menswear, yet it never completely fades away.

Aloha shirts didn’t start off popular. In the 1920s, Gordon Young wore one to the University of Washington, causing a stir and bringing attention to the shirt. Its origins are debated: some believe it came from Japanese kimono fabric, others say Filipino ‘tails-out’ shirts, and some think it came from Tahitian prints. Early Hawaiians also dyed their barkcloth clothes with kukui nut juice, creating vibrant red and yellow hues.

“Each generation has its unique fashion,” states Dale Hope, former Creative Director of Kahala. “Nevertheless, the allure of a well-crafted aloha shirt is undeniable. It has been suggested that universal adoption of aloha shirts could lead to global peace. These garments are inherently positive and enjoyable, promoting a convivial attitude. In Hawaii, they are particularly esteemed, serving as cultural ambassadors.”

In 1778, British mariner Captain Cook brought the western shirt to Hawaii during an unexpected visit. Missionaries subsequently taught Hawaiians how to sew. Later, Chinese and Japanese immigrants, employed on the islands’ sugar and pineapple plantations, introduced their own printed silks and traditional fabrics, along with tailoring techniques. The term ‘Hawaiian shirt’ was coined in 1927 by Ellery Chun, a tailor and businessman, as a marketing tactic, with ‘aloha shirt’ registered nine years later.

The concept caught on quickly, appealing to both locals and tourists alike. By the 1930s, Honolulu boasted 275 tailors specializing in these shirts, and the islands enjoyed a flourishing trade with Japan, known for its expertise in crafting intricate, handmade printed fabrics. This era of prosperity was abruptly interrupted by the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, drawing the United States into World War II.

Following the war’s end in the late 1940s, the Hawaiian shirt became synonymous with leisure and relaxation, popularized by pre-war movie stars like Al Jolson and Douglas Fairbanks seen wearing them at their beachfront estates. By 1947, Hawaiian city council employees were permitted to wear these shirts to work. Duke Kahanamoku, renowned as a surfing pioneer and Hawaiian icon, further promoted the garment. By 1958, shirt manufacturing became one of Hawaii’s leading industries.

The designs of these shirts often reflect their origins, with motifs ranging from American and native Hawaiian to Japanese influences, featuring florals, landscapes, and marine life. Print designers like Keiji Kawakami contributed significantly, integrating island and surf-themed imagery into their designs.

“The artistry of the aloha shirt is truly remarkable,” remarks Hope. “Each shirt tells a unique story, unlike a standard Oxford button-down. During that era, everything was meticulously hand-painted, reflecting a slower lifestyle and less media saturation. Today, replicating that ease with modern technology proves challenging. Hawaii has since transformed with the rise of hotels and condominiums, but back then, it was a paradise. Arriving in a wool suit, you’d be greeted with leis and end up surfing with locals. Who would want to return to their suit? The aloha shirt embodied that spirit.” As Duke Kahanamoku succinctly put it in a Hawaiian shirt advertisement from the early 1950s: Hoomanau Nui — take it easy.